The first time I went to Pagliacci’s for brunch I didn’t know any better. The complementary toasted sesame bagels and cream cheese and jam arrived and I just dug in. How could I resist? They were chewy and warm and crunchy in one go. And they filled up precious space in my belly.

If only I knew what was in store… Jayne Mansfield (full order for $9.50 or $7.50 for half – and believe me when I tell you that half is more than plenty). As they are described on the menu: “three large, round, firm, voluptuous, delectable, creamy ricotta cheese pancakes” . And their description fits the bill. These suckers are big, fluffy, a bit caramelized on the outside, oh-so moist and a bit tart. Heaven on a brunch plate is all I have to say.

But for those who have doubts about committing to sweet before noon then take a look at their Sunday Brunch menu. I’m sure you’ll find something that suits you. It’s one of those rare examples where the witticism on the page – Eggscape From New York ($9.95) or Eggs Benedict Arnold ($9.95) – are matched by hearty satisfying food on the plate. Service is efficient and friendly. The place is comfy.

Oh, and the joint has a great night cityscape mural. And they play jazz. And have high ceilings. And you won’t feel like you’re in Victoria anymore, more like 1930s New York when your fellow diners could just as well be Algonquin Round Table regulars.

Pagliacci’s
Broad & Fort Street, Victoria
Phone: 250.386.1662
Web: www.pagliaccis.ca
Sunday Brunch: 10am-3pm
(they are also open the rest of the time)