DB Bistro Moderne

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Rising above the Rob Feenie soap opera, DB Bistro Moderne on Broadway changes up Feenie’s high-end bar/bistro feel with a relaxing modern room in brown leather. DB stands of course for Daniel Boloud and there is a restaurant of the same name in New York. On my way I had tingles down my spine imaging that Daniel could be in the kitchen. But it was a Wednesday night and almost empty; I have to assume Daniel had better things to do. (I had to settle for NYC photos hanging in the fancy restrooms.)

The amuse bouche was a pastry puff baked with Gruyere and underwhelming to my taste. On the waiter’s recommendation we ordered a bottle of Gamay that was outrageously good ($65) and I am still trying to recall the name. We set about taking in the bistro style menu, and started with a Chop Chop Salad, a playful mix of romaine, carrot, watermelon, picked mushroom, and avocado ($8, spot prawn optional) and a Nova Scotia Lobster salad with mesclun, heart of palm, artichokes, pesto dressing. (AP$22) The chop chop was fresh and fun and plated beautifully with watermelon cubes. The lobster salad was a love affair on its own, with a whole lobster claw and a mix of wonderful flavors all tied together by a creamy pesto. Moving on, I had the Grilled Wild Salmon, with fennel coulis, artichoke barigoule, sauce vierge. ($25) This was a subtle and delicious plate of perfect portion size, with a delicious sear on the perfectly cooked fish. The Slow baked Halibut was an impressive tower of white flesh, with white and green asparagus, ample fava beans, and a show-stopping meyer lemon confit. ($24) We had a layered chocolate desert with raspberries, on special, and were completely sated. Eating at DB Bistro moderne was a near flawless experience, save for a near empty dining room. It should be noted that they have answered to Feenie’s famous foie gras burger with a towering truffle burger and fries that looked fabulous (but as I overheard someone mention, not suitable for a first date).

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