Central Gastown is stealing hearts and minds with new restaurants and bars opening monthly. The newest addition L’Abbatoir sits next to Cork and Fin and a stone’s throw from Boneta, filling the space left by the old Irish Heather.

L’Abbatoir is French for slaughterhouse, a nod to blood alley, steps away. Like all of the establishments in this building, there is tons of natural light and great brick, and they have done an amazing job renovating, including re-inventing the solarium under a striking tree branch chandelier. The staff is keen, friendly and knowledgeable; the menu is small and to the point on a metal clip board. At the bar Shaun Layton impresses while Chef Lee Cooper puts out a clean and sophisticated cuisine.

The bread we were given to start was delicious with a cheesey twist and a fluffy bun with bacon in it. Yes, bacon. How many times have you been given bread at the beginning of a meal with bacon inside of it? Enough said.

The starters we had were quickly devoured and while they were not entirely understood by me, they were enjoyed. Beautiful and enticing, a lightly poached egg served with quinoa and swiss chard was served with tomato sauce. ($11) Probably the only thing I didn’t love was the Dungeoness crab and chickpea “toast,” served with a crab custard and carrot pickles, but I am not a fan of custards. The dish was still eagerly eaten and quite interesting in textures and tastes.

The mains we ordered were a big success. My favorite was the lightly steamed fillet of ling cod, served with dreamy celeriac croquettes, glazed celery, artichokes, tomato and olive oil sauce. This was bright and perfectly cooked, a refreshing counterpoint to a summer evening. ($23) The roasted fillet of steelhead brought a more savory note, served with raviolies of smoked trout belly and a generous pouring of decadent browned butter and caper emulsion. ($23)

L’Abbatoir fires on all fronts. From decor to drinks, food, service and location, nothing disappoints. And with probably the best restaurant lighting for food photography, I loved it. L’Abbatoir does not take reservations and time will tell if that means its convenient to stop by or impossible to get in. For now though, this is my new favorite spot, making it ever more likely that I will never get out of Gastown.

Update: New Dishes At L’Abattoir

www.labattoir.ca
217 Carrall Street, Gastown, Vancouver
No Reservations
Open Monday to Saturday
Dinner service from 5:30pm to Midnight
Kitchen closes at 10.30pm
info@labattoir.ca
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